Our science
Science at the service of the skin’s intelligence.
At Pure & Lab, we develop dermocosmetic skincare that combines biotechnology, biomimetic peptides and high-performance active ingredients to support the skin’s natural mechanisms.
How we read the skin
Understanding the biology of the skin to reveal its full potential.
The skin is a complex organ whose balance relies on a constant interaction between the skin barrier, the microbiome, the epidermal and dermal cells, and the natural mechanisms of repair and protection. Over time, through exposure to environmental aggressions and oxidative stress, these mechanisms gradually weaken, affecting the quality, firmness and radiance of the skin.
At Pure & Lab, we develop dermocosmetic formulas using an approach grounded in current knowledge of skin physiology. Each product is built from a demanding selection of active ingredients recognised for their biological interest, combined in carefully studied concentrations so that they act in a complementary way on the skin’s different needs.
Our expertise brings together biotechnology, biomimetic peptides, hydrating actives, physiological lipids, antioxidants and high-quality botanical extracts in order to support the skin’s essential functions while respecting its natural balance.
More than a simple combination of ingredients, we favour a global approach in which every active is selected for its affinity with the skin and its ability to act in synergy with the other components of the formula.
Because lastingly balanced skin is, above all, skin whose biological mechanisms are respected, each of our formulations is designed to support its natural functioning rather than constrain it.
More than fifteen actives per serum
Combining more than fifteen targeted actives (peptides, algae polysaccharides, vitamins, botanical extracts, pre- and probiotics) in a single serum makes it possible to act simultaneously on several biological pathways of skin ageing — oxidative stress, glycation, low-grade inflammation, dysbiosis, matrix degradation — rather than on a single target.
Factual mention of the number of actives, without any claim of a disproportionate cumulative effect, in accordance with Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products — common criteria for the justification of claims (Annex, Regulation EU 655/2013).
Our scientific approach
Six families of actives, chosen for what they bring to the skin.
- 01
Pre / probiotics and the skin microbiome
Our skin hosts its own ecosystem of micro-organisms, directly linked to that of our gut. When this balance is respected, the skin defends itself better, retains its hydration better and reacts less to external aggressions. This is why our formulas — such as the Hydra Milk Cleanser — include prebiotics: rather than removing bacteria at random as some conventional cleansers do, they selectively feed the “good” bacteria of the skin to preserve this natural balance, day after day.
- Dumbuya H, Podimatis K, Kerob D, Draelos ZD. Efficacy of a Prebiotic Skincare Regimen on Improving Mild Atopic Dermatitis and Severe Xerosis in Diverse Ethnically Patients. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(3).
- 02
Centella asiatica exosomes
Exosomes are tiny vesicles naturally produced by plants, which carry their most active biological messages directly into the skin cells. Those derived from Centella asiatica (also known as Gotu Kola), a plant emblematic of healing and soothing, deliver its benefits in a more targeted way than a conventional extract. Result observed in use: better hydrated, more elastic and visibly soothed skin, with excellent tolerance even on sensitive skin.
- Park HS, Shin S. Clinical Efficacy and Safety Evaluation of a Centella asiatica (CICA)-Derived Extracellular Vesicle Formulation for Anti-Aging Skincare. Cosmetics. 2025;12(4):135.
- 03
Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is the most extensively documented plant-based alternative to retinol to date. Derived from a plant used for centuries in traditional medicine, it acts on the skin in a way comparable to retinol — stimulating its renewal and softening the signs of age — but without the irritation, the tingling or the sun sensitivity that often accompany it. It is the active of choice for a visible anti-ageing effect, including on reactive skin.
- Dhaliwal S, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol. 2019;180(2):289-296.
- 04
The essential nutrients: vitamin C and niacinamide
Vitamin C and niacinamide (vitamin B3) form a particularly complementary duo. The first protects the skin from daily oxidative stress (sun, pollution) and stimulates collagen production for firmer skin and a more luminous complexion. The second strengthens the skin barrier, softens dark spots and evens the complexion, while calming redness. Together, they act both in prevention and in repair, for protected and radiant skin.
- Humbert PG, et al. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Eur J Dermatol. 2003.
- Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):860-5.
- 05
High-precision botanical essential oils
Every essential oil in our formulas is chosen for a targeted action. Celery and cultivated carrot are traditionally recognised for helping to soften the appearance of pigment spots and even the complexion. Ylang-ylang is precious for dull skin prone to shine: it helps to naturally regulate sebum production while bringing softness and radiance. Citrus aurantium leaf (petitgrain), Damask rose and neroli, obtained by distilling petals and leaves of very high quality, complete this synergy by bringing balance, tone and an incomparable sensoriality. All our essential oils are chemotyped, botanically defined, and incorporated at dilution levels that are neither irritating to the skin nor photosensitising.
- Picerno P, Autore G, Marzocco S, Meloni M, Sanogo R, Aquino RP. Anti-inflammatory activity of verminoside from Kigelia africana. J Nat Prod. 2005;68(11):1610-4.
- Herman A, Herman AP. Essential oils and their constituents as skin penetration enhancer for transdermal drug delivery: a review. J Pharm Pharmacol. 2015;67(4):473-85.
- 06
Algae extract with a firming effect
Some algae, such as laminaria, produce polysaccharides capable of forming a slightly firming film on the surface of the skin while nourishing it deeply. Sourced from controlled, Cosmos Bio-certified harvesting, this extract brings firmness, suppleness and an immediate “tightened skin” effect, while respecting the marine resource.
Research focus
Brown algae and marine polyphenols
Fucus vesiculosus, Laminaria hyperborea and Undaria pinnatifida are at the heart of several Pure & Lab formulas. Here is what the scientific literature says about them today.
- A 2025 review documents the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial bioactivities of brown algae; the laminarins extracted from Ascophyllum nodosum and Laminaria hyperborea show strong radical-scavenging activity (DPPH), with the ability to reduce the oxidative cytotoxicity of certain drugs, confirming their interest as anti-oxidative-stress agents.
- A study of brown algae extracts showed an inhibition of skin glycation (glucose/methylglyoxal model) associated with a stimulation of collagen synthesis — a mechanism directly linked to skin ageing through the glycation of structural proteins (AGEs).
- Fitton et al. conducted clinical trials comparing two characterised extracts titrated in fucoidan: Undaria pinnatifida (85% fucoidan) and Fucus vesiculosus (60% fucoidan + 30% polyphenols/polyphloroglucinol). Both extracts demonstrated clinically significant efficacy in reducing erythema and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after UV irradiation compared with placebo (p < 0.05), with F. vesiculosus proving slightly superior.
- A 2024 review (Marine Drugs) focused on dermatological applications confirms the anti-inflammatory properties of brown algae, in connection with the modulation of the skin microbiome in inflammatory skin conditions.
| Algae family | Key active | Main documented benefit | Clinical evidence |
|---|---|---|---|
| Brown algae | Fucoidan, marine polyphenols | Anti-glycation, post-UV protection, soothing | Comparative clinical trials (Fitton et al.) |
References
- 1. Fonseca-Barahona et al., ChemBioEng Reviews, 2025 — bioactives of brown algae.
- 2. Ersoydan & Rustemeyer, Marine Drugs, 2024 — anti-inflammatory activity of brown algae in dermatology.
- 3. Fitton et al. — clinical studies Undaria pinnatifida / Fucus vesiculosus, Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology.
- 4. Chwil et al., Pharmaceuticals, 2024 — review of Arthrospira/Spirulina and the skin.
- 5. Reich et al., Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2025 — Spiralin® and the skin microbiome in atopic dermatitis.
- 6. Spirulina/Chlorella peptide study, PMC, 2025 — antioxidant and anti-ageing activity.
- 7. Clinical study Porphyridium EPS/PDRN vs hyaluronic acid. Marine Drugs. 2026;24(3):99.
Our standard
A 100% clean range, without compromise
Our serums contain no superfluous excipients, no controversial preservatives and no endocrine disruptors. This choice is not merely a question of trend: health agencies, including the WHO and France’s ANSES, have been warning for several years about the link between chronic exposure to certain endocrine disruptors — present in many conventional cosmetics — and the increase in certain hormone-dependent cancers (breast, prostate), as well as other hormonal disorders. Formulating without these substances is therefore, for us, as much a matter of public health as it is a brand commitment.
Product focus
Perfect Essence, the anti-blemish serum
Perfect Essence was designed for skin prone to blemishes and enlarged pores. It combines azelaic acid, recognised for refining the skin texture and softening marks, salicylic acid, which gently exfoliates and unclogs the pores, and bisabolol, a chamomile extract with soothing properties that calms the redness and irritation associated with blemishes. This base is completed by a bouquet of essential oils — ylang-ylang, cultivated carrot, celery and citrus aurantium leaf — which regulate sebum and visibly tighten enlarged pores, for clearer, smoother and better balanced skin.
Document written for a general audience. The detailed scientific studies supporting each of these categories are available in our professional summary “Scientifically documented actives — Pure & Lab”.
Discover the skincare born from this expertise.
Every Pure & Lab formula translates this scientific approach into a simple gesture, in the treatment room as well as at home.